The Amalfi Coast is something to be experienced and not just seen. It is euphoria for the mind and body. Multicolor towns carved into the coastline reaching from the pebbly beaches below to as high as the eye can see, almost heaven. Countless local treasures to be found, and each more unique than the last.
Sorrento, Capri, and Positano scratch just the surface of this perfect slice of Italian coastline.
We flew into Naples and headed straight for Sorrento via private transfer, as I had heard of the seediness of the city, and we were arriving quite late. I would highly recommend pre-booking your transfer as the prices can be astronomical in this region since supply exceeds demand. We paid approx. 70 euro for the 1.5 hr trip to Sorrento.
We stayed in a Bed & Breakfast in the center of Sorrento, which allowed us to pack as much into our one day stay before ferrying to Capri. That evening we wandered the streets which were filled with live music and ambient chatter of the guests on the numerous patios. We had to try some Neapolitan Pizza and stumbled across a family-owned restaurant called Il Giardiniello which made such a mouthwatering pizza that we still think about it today.
The following morning, we walked over to the Piazza Tasso, went to the Observation Deck View Point with the Lift to the Water, and meandered through some streets picking up lemon adorned gifts for back home. Sorrento had a Miami Vice feel to it, with palm trees dotting the streets and opulent hotels and villas adorned with lots of gold. The scenery was also unique in that homes were built into the cascading cliffs in such a dramatic way. I wish we had stayed another day to enjoy the Lidos. I love a good beach club.
We took the ferry to Capri. The timetable can be found here. Taxis are also sparse on this island, so expect to pay higher fares getting to your hotel. Many higher-end hotels also offer to pick up from the ferry docks.
We chose to stay at the Hotel Weber Ambassador because we had heard that the town can be overcrowded during the day due to cruise ship visitors. We couldn’t be happier with our choice because the hotel also offered a free shuttle to/from Capri Town which we took advantage of many times throughout our stay. The hotel also had a few pools and a few steps away from access to the Marina Piccola and Da Gioia where we went swimming in the ocean.
Capri Town at night was so magical. A world of difference from the chaos of the daytime. It was laid back yet refined. There are countless luxury shops with many of them carrying “Capri only” items. For gelato, head to Buonocore Gelateria Pasticceria Gastronomia e Tavola Calda for the creamiest options, but expect a lineup – it will be worth your time. For sips and some of the most interesting people-watching, head to any of the bars and cafes around Piazza Umberto I.
For dinner, we went to La Palette. It was a bit of a trek walking from town through the narrow uphill roads to reach the restaurant. But, the views and the romantic atmosphere was well worth the effort. I had a lemon-infused pasta (if you haven’t guessed it the region is known for lemons). And, Andrew enjoyed a seafood risotto. We were lucky enough to hear a local man and child singing in the streets to a crowd of admirers this evening in the background of our dinner. The perfect dinner.
The next day we grabbed some water, cheeses, snacks, and pre-made sandwiches from the shops in the Marina Grande, and headed to Banana Sport Capri Boat Rentals for a day out on the water.
We leisurely made our way around the island in 5 hours. We tried buoying ourselves for lunch, but couldn’t figure out the number to call for pickup, but would plan ahead to do that next time. It was so nice to explore the coastline of Capri from the boat and be able to stop for swimming whenever we pleased. We also got to thread the Faraglioni rocks. Legend has it that couples who kiss as they pass through the rocks will stay together forever.
After so much sun, we headed to a casual dinner at La Piazzetta, which turned out to be so good. I had razor clams with homemade pasta with parsley and olive oil. Such simple ingredients can combine to delicious when they are fresh.
We took the ferry to Positano. The timetable can be found here.
In Positano, we enjoyed the views from our balcony in our B&B and made the only purpose of each day to relax. We went to the Arienzo Beach Club at the shorelines to enjoy the day. The food and drinks were great here, and the sunbeds allowed us to feel secure with our belongings when swimming.
We went to Bucca di Bacco for dinner which is listed in the Michelin guide. Here, we enjoyed lobster linguine and shrimps overlooking the Spiaggia Grande.
The next day we went to Fiordo di Furore and Furore Beach. While waiting at the bus stop, we stepped into Bar Internazionale for some snacks. The beach was lackluster and full of pebbles with no food options. However, Andrew had a blast jumping off the cliffs into the water below. Someone had told us that locals hold a diving competition from the top of the bridge each year. I couldn’t imagine ever jumping from that high!
We wanted to have dinner on our balcony, so grabbed some cheeses from Non Solo Frutta Di Russo Luisa (a grocery shop) and some take out gnocchi and seafood linguine from Il Grottino Azzurro.
Because of the hot weather, we didn’t get a chance to Hike Sentiero degli Die “Path of the Gods” from Bonerano, but will definitely try next time.
The Amalfi Coast is bellissimo!
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